REVIEWS

Essence Magazine - April 2005

Manhattan's Sugar Bar: stars shine and dine at Nick Ashford and Valerie Simpson's sweet, soulful restaurant
by Jonell Nash

THE DREAM: The musical duo's Ain't No Mountain High Enough could have been R & B artist Nick Ashford's theme song as he surmounted obstacle after obstacle to create the restaurant of his dreams: New York City's Sugar Bar. Despite challenges--obtaining countless city permits, cost overruns--Nick, who co-owns the now seven-year-old restaurant with his wife and musical collaborator, Valerie Simpson, has built an eatery that embodies his love of good food, eye for design and respect for African culture.

THE DECOR: It begins at the front door, which is inlaid with forged brass and copper. The interior, decked with handmade natural materials and fabrics, provides a cultural fix. Gracing the walls are masks, art and artifacts from Nigeria, Congo, Burundi, Sudan and other nations throughout the African continent.

THE FOOD: Under the direction of chef Berthony Pierre, the menu features a delectable array of Afro-Caribbean classics. Paella, a house specialty, arrives at the table in its cooking pan; diners are invited to serve themselves family-style. Fish of the day--red snapper, sea bass or parilla de mar--is the most requested dish.

We slipped into the kitchen to watch Pierre at work and were given these recipes for you to enjoy at home.

BREAD PUDDING WITH RUM RAISINS

Makes 12 servings. Prep time: 10 minutes.
Total time: 60 minutes (includes soaking
time for bread and raisins).

1-pound loaf French bread, cubed
2 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup rum
1 cup sugar
4 eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon salt (optional)
2 medium-size Granny Smith apples,
peeled, cored, diced
Optional garnishes: favorite store-bought
dessert sauce, powdered sugar, coconut
ice cream, fresh mint sprig

Heat oven to 350[degrees]F. Grease 12 standard-size muffin-tin cups; set aside. In large bowl, combine bread, milk and cream; soak 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in small bowl, combine raisins and rum. Soak 15 minutes. In large bowl, whisk together sugar, eggs, vanilla, cinnamon and salt. Add apples, bread and raisins. Stir well to combine. Spoon mixture into prepared muffin cups. Bake until set, and tops are browned, about 30 minutes. To serve, drizzle dessert sauce on plates; top with bread pudding. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Top with ice cream and mint.

Per serving: 409 calories, 19 grams fat,
131 milligrams cholesterol, 312 milligrams
sodium, 51 grams carbohydrate,
8 grams protein.

QUICK SEAFOOD PAELLA

Here's a shortcut version of the house specialty.

Makes 4 servings. Prep time: 10 minutes
Total time: 40 minutes.

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
1 garlic clove, minced
1 cup tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon salt (optional)
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon hot red-pepper flakes
1/16 teaspoon saffron or turmeric
1 cup uncooked medium-grain rice,
preferrably arborio
2 1/2 cups chicken broth
1 1/2 pounds seafood (sliced calamari,
peeled and deveined jumbo shrimp,
scallops)
1 cup frozen peas
Garnishes: pimento strips, lemon wedges

In large skillet or Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Saute onion and garlic, about 2 minutes. Add tomatoes, bay leaf, salt, thyme, pepper flakes and saffron; cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes. Mix in rice and broth; bring to boil. Cover tightly and simmer 15 minutes. Stir in seafood and peas; cover and cook on medium heat until rice is tender and liquid is absorbed, about 10 minutes. Garnish with strips of pimento and lemon wedges.

Per serving: 390 calories, 7 grams fat,
151 milligrams cholesterol, 715 milligrams
sodium, 59 grams carbohydrate,
26 grams protein.

AREPITAS (CORN CAKES)

Makes 4 appetizer servings.
Total time: 10 minutes.

1 cup white cornmeal
1 cup warm water
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive oil

In mixing bowl, combine cornmeal, water
and salt. Roll mixture into 8 small balls; flatten to 2-inch disks. In large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Panfry corn cakes until cooked through and browned, about 2 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels.

Per serving, arepitas and guasacaca: 316
calories, 19 grams fat, 0 cholesterol, 301
milligrams sodium, 35 grams carbohydrate,
5 grams protein.

GUASACACA
(Venezuelan name for guacamole)

Makes 4 appetizer servings.
Total time: 5 minutes.

1 medium-size avocado
(preferably Haas), diced
1 small red onion, diced
1 medium-size tomato, seeded, diced
2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt (optional)

In mixing bowl, combine all ingredients.Serve right away, or cover and refrigerate.

The Sugar Bar is located at 254 West 72nd Street, New York City. To make a reservation or for more information, call (212) 579-0222 or visit sugarbarnyc.com.